If Quo Vadis is one thing, it is the Grand Dame of Soho. Marked out on Dean Street by a giant art deco neon sign down the side of the building, it was founded in 1926 in its current venue, which had served as a brothel and the home of Karl Marx where he began writing Das Kapital. Owned and run by the Hart Brothers and chef Jeremy Lee, it now houses its restaurant, private rooms and members club. Recently the Michelin starred Barrafina (also owned by the Hart Brothers) has also moved in on the ground floor.
With a daily changing menu, each print of which is covered in witty illustrations by artist John Broadley, the food on offer is seasonal British with a light clean modern twist. There are certain elements that always feature: oysters of the day, a set menu, small bites, the pie of the day with mash, a side of chips; often there is a starter of squid or cuttlefish, and Jeremy Lee’s signature smoked eel sandwich.
It is hard to say what is best, never have I had a bad meal at Quo Vadis. The pie, no matter what its content, is always perfect. The chips are like door wedges, so be warned, eat with care, just two of them will leave u so stuffed you wont be able to manage any of your main dish. When in season the salsify with parmesan is superb, as is the asparagus with smoked roe and pheasants’ eggs. I’d go on but I’d just be listing everything I’ve ever eaten there. Suffice to say no matter what you order you’ll be in for a treat. Oh, and if you have room, have the sticky toffee pudding to finish, it’s to die for.
London Lamppost Score – 4.5/5
26-29 Dean Street,
020 7437 9585