Since the second branch of M opened on Victoria Street it has overshadowed its elder sister in The City. Wine Bar, Raw Bar, Bar, and Grill restaurant, the site is deceptively large; like an iceberg most of it’s submerged (underground not water, thankfully!).
In no way is it a cheap place, the wines are all superb and charged accordingly, and cocktails are at typical London prices. The food is split between a raw menu that’s 100% gluten free, and the grill menu. The raw menu heavily features sashimi from more unusual fish such as Ikejime Kingfish. The smoked beef tartare with apple and foie gras is a mellow and subtle take on the raw beef classic.
The grill restaurant, unsurprisingly, specialises in steak, but each cut comes from cattle from a different country. I’ve tried the ribeye from Botswana and have to declare myself disappointed with it. I love ribeye above all other cuts; it has wonderful texture, flavour and fat. Unfortunately, while the steak was cooked without incident, nicely grilled medium rare, the meat lacked flavour and tenderness thanks to a complete lack of fat. When being charged £36 for it (before sides) it was proof yet again as to why I tend to avoid steak in restaurants in favour of cooking my own perfectly at home with a better piece of salt aged beef The beef short rib, though, was very good and the starters on offer are made up of most of the raw menu so you don’t have to miss out on that.
While service was slow – the table that came in long after us was served their mains long before us – the staff themselves were very good, smiling and helpful. Is it a place I’d go back to? No, I’m afraid, on the basis of my experience and despite the food being decent; I just didn’t get the hype. Everything was a bit flat and expensive.
London Lamppost Score – 3/5
Zig Zag Building,
74 Victoria St,
020 3327 7776