Since opening a few years back in Soho (and last year in The City) Blacklock has been almost permanently packed; hardly a surprise when their Instagram feed (the modern route of marketing for restaurants) leaves you drooling.
The concept is simple: meat, predominantly chops, from the grill and cocktails.
It’s easy to miss the entrance to the Soho Blacklock; it’s just a slim black painted doorway opening onto a staircase leading down to a basement. Once you get down there, the room opens up with the kitchen open along the side wall and the individual and long sharing tables laid out among the iron columns holding the ceiling up.
When it comes to the menu there are no starters, just ‘Pre Chop Bites’. In essence they’re large canapés but well worth having to wet your appetite and, given the quality and quantity, you’ll need an appetite. The staff, all supremely friendly, knowledgeable and keen to help, can advise you on the main course. Your choice is between a selection of ‘Skinny Chops’, ‘Big Chops’ charged per 100g of weight, ‘Off the Bone’ steaks and chops and a selection of incredible sides and sauces. But if this is your first visit there is really only one choice – and it’s a choice that you’ll go back for time and time again – the ‘All In’ washed down by a few different cocktails (all £5 or £7.50).
The ‘All In’ is a mouth-watering and stomach filling combination of ‘Pre Chop Bites’, all of that day’s ‘Skinny Chops’ (and there’s usually 8 of them, a mixture of pork, lamb and beef) on a focaccia or flat bread and a side, all at £20 per person (min of 2 people). It is monumental and delicious. The chops, served up on a platter, are moist and oozing in juices that mingle with the salt and grill chard outside as you bite into them. The sides? Well they are incomparable: the beef dripping chips are among the best examples to be found, the charred courgette, chicory and stilton is supreme in the way the bitterness of the veg mingles with the umami saltiness of the cheese, and the 10 hour ash roasted sweet potatoes have a beautiful smokiness to them. And don’t forget to add a sauce or two; the chilli hollandaise, the béarnaise, and the garlic marrow spread are all perfect accompaniments. If you have room after all this, do try to eat, or at least have a bite of, the bread that the chops sat on when they were brought to the table, as it has soaked up the juices from the meat.
If you fancy something lighter Blacklock offers one of London’s best steak sandwiches, using aged hanger steak, bone marrow, watercress and mustard mayo. The other dish they have become famous for is their Sunday Roast when you can choose between three different roasts or, if you cant choose, they even do an ‘All In’ version. The roast is so popular that Sundays are booked up weeks in advance.
London Lamppost Score – 4/5
24 Great Windmill St,